The Carlisle Mosquito Online

Friday, June 2, 2000

Features

One Mill Street "Historic Lawrence's Tastiest Destination" (at Canal Street)

The restaurant's quote, "Historic Lawrence's Tastiest Destination" might start you off wondering if they can live up to that, but they proved to be well able to do just that.

My daughter had read a review in the newspaper and saved it for us. I'm glad she did. This place could become addictive and it is good that it takes about 45 minutes to get there or I might easily hop there for lunch and dinner.

Located in the old pay house of a Lawrence mill, it has been exquisitely restored. The present chefs are well on their way to the top. Only open 14 weeks, every table was filled and everyone looked satisfied.

I can also attest to the quality. We started by sharing a chopped vegetable and arugula salad, with smoked bacon and bleu cheese vinaigrette ($8). The serving was large and very well-prepared and the waitress thoughtfully served it on two separate plates. I had my sights on the barbecue babyback ribs with coleslaw, red beans, rice and watermelon ($15), but was tempted by one of the evening's specials; soft shell crab with pureed red pepper mashed potatoes and a red and yellow tiny tomato salad. It was fantastic and I forgot to ask the price, but everything on the menu was between $13 and $18. There was enough on my plate (and I took some home) to have skipped the salad, but I'm glad I didn't. We were first served a large basket of a variety of breads with a creamy tomato and roasted garlic dipping sauce. I could have stopped there and spent the rest of the meal sampling the breads and dipping.

Alex had the spice crusted grilled lamb, with a smoked lamb and manchego cheese crostini, grilled asparagus and roasted garlic potatoes which was excellent, too. All this was accompanied by an excellent Merlot at $18.00 per bottle. They also had a vegetarian platter at $13, with a tomato cilantro risotto cake, mashed potatoes, asparagus and grilled vegetables.

Other entrees included a roasted half chicken with chipotle sweet potatoes and garlic asparagus, roasted cod with crushed potatoes, watercress salad and roasted garlic chile cream, pan-seared halibut with orange fennel alligator salsa and creamy purple potatoes, grilled New York sirloin, with roasted-garlic mashed potatoes, crispy onion rings and wild mushroom red-wine glaze (there were more, but this gives you the idea). In addition they serve a variety of sandwiches, ($8-$9).

Dessert was spectacular! We shared the chocolate box, at $8. It was a small octagonal hat box completely made of chocolate, the lid leaning against the side resting in raspberry coulis. The box was filled with a chocolate crisp, topped with a large amount of chocolate mousse, with two white chocolate straws. It was more than enough and we took the box top home for another treat later. Here they also serve the largest cup of coffee I have ever seen. It was more like a soup bowl and I enjoyed every drop.

One Mill Street is open for lunch and does not take reservations for parties under six, but we got there a little before 7 p.m. and there was a table available. Unfortunately, given the great service and food, I'm afraid this will not last. I hope in the future they will consider reservations. Later this summer they are opening a dining room upstairs, called Elizabeth's. It will be more elegant, with limited seating and an overview of the city.


2000 The Carlisle Mosquito